Happy Thanksgiving - 2013

I flat out love Thanksgiving! First of all, who was so brilliant to have picked the last Thursday of the month of November giving us a four day weekend to get a start on our Christmas season!? Of course we all know about the first Thanksgiving, at least in this country, at Plymouth Rock in 1621. The practice of holding an annual harvest festival did not become a regular affair in New England until the late 1660's. But it was our first President, George Washington, who proclaimed the first national holiday.

So, besides the holiday starting a 4 day weekend, I love the food and family aspect of the holiday and of course the underlying  reason for the holiday - giving thanks! We all have so much to be thankful for. First - we are so blessed to live in this country and live in Arizona! That's just the start….my list is long…my family, my new wife, my business, friends, clients, my ability to draw and design, my health….well I can go on for a long time. 

Candelaria Design - Rural Mediterranean Kitchen

Now, what does design and architecture have to do with Thanksgiving??? Well, how about the aesthetic aspect of Thanksgiving? Of course cooking Thanksgiving dinner in a Candelaria Design Kitchen would be fantastic, but we can't have it all. So, I think there are two things that can make a huge difference in how you enjoy the beauty of Thanksgiving….table dressing and plating! Just taking some time to amp up the table and then the way the dinner plate is plated can turn your Thanksgiving into a work of art and a memorable experience for your guests. 

Let's start with the table. I have assembled some of my favorite Thanksgiving table settings from some of my favorite designers and chefs. I think the Thanksgiving table has the real tendency to get hokey! The cornucopia and the comical turkey has to go! How about a Ralph Lauren http://www.ralphlaurenhome.com table. Rich and elegant. Try a plaid tablecloth with a criss cross table runner! And Thanksgiving does not always have to be typical fall colors….try something different,mix in some blues and purples with deep colors, with the standard golds and oranges.  

Topiary is a nice touch as are candles in glass hurricanes filled with acorns or nuts. Natural botanicals, like this carried by Isabel at Earth and Images http://www.earthandimages.com can add lovely color and texture to the table.  I also like the touch of the place card on the plate. How nice is this - a pheasant feather and a sprig of rosemary. Simple, elegant and quietly says Thanksgiving. 













Finally, you always need some bling - I love the silver dome available at Williams-Sonoma http://www.williams-sonoma.com to cover the turkey until its time to unveil it at the table. Talk about something that can keep the turkey warm and add some bling and drama to the table. Basically, think out of the box but don't over do it. Keep it classy, elegant and most importantly - simple. 

Earth and Images - Natural Botanicals

Now plating! A minor detail but one that seems to be lost with Thanksgiving. Thanksgiving has kind of gone the way of the buffet dinner. Everything is pulled out of the oven and set out on the kitchen counter and the buffet line is set! Sometimes the serving dishes make it to the table but everyone helps themselves and the serving dishes get passed around. Nothing wrong with any of this and both of these common ways of serving the Thanksgiving dinner can still be made a bit more unique with some of the special touches to the table. But what about plating the dishes in the kitchen adding some special garnishes to make the Thanksgiving plate spectacular and then serving each party as you would in a restaurant! You can have a plate of slop or something with a little finesse! The Thanksgiving plate is the most neglected aesthetic plate of the year. Amp it up! Wow talk about something that would be out of the box. 

Slop

Style

Ok now for a few recipes. Brining turkey is the best. It makes the meat juicy and tender. Michael Chiarello's Thanksgiving is amazing and it all starts with brining. Here is a link to an easy way to do it along with some amazing side dishes. http://www.winemag.com/Web-2010/Thanksgiving-with-Michael-Chiarello/
Yes it takes time but it is worth it. Brine it with the juniper berries and bay leaves for a great touch. There are plenty of recipes floating around out there so I am going to skip posting some here. But what about wines???? Here are some recommendations from some of my favorite chefs. Mario Batali suggests bottle of the Sangiovese-based red known as Morellino di Scansano or the medium bodied Friulano from northeast Italy. Both are reasonably priced under $20. Or go with one of my recommendations, a Spanish wine - Toro's full-bodied, dark wines from the Tinta de Toro clone of Tempranillo. Go with the 2010 Termes from Numanthia-Termes for $28. 92 points on this one - you will love it. 

Dinner is done and now its time for some football and a good snifter of Blanton's single barrel bourbon and a great cigar. Now the nice part - it's only Thursday and we have three more days to recover! Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

November Update

Wow - I cannot believe we are just 45 days from the end of 2013! We all know how fast the next 6 weeks will speed by.

We have been so busy at Candelaria Design! We are completing some wonderful projects, we have many on the boards in design and several new ones just starting. We are involved in a number of community charity projects. We have been traveling. We have been filming and shooting. We have been cooking - literally!







In terms of projects - all I can say is AMAZING! We just completed a fabulous Santa Barbara Style home in Paradise Valley with a well executed contemporary twist to it. Built by Schultz Development http://www.schultzdevelopment.org this home is definitely one of our best. With the combined talents of David Michael Miller Interiors http://davidmichaelmiller.com, Berghoff Design http://www.berghoffdesign.com and Creative Designs in Lighting http://cdltg.com this project is a jewel. The home features a fabulous Bulthaup Kitchen http://www.bulthaup.com with finely crafted steel windows from Riviera Bronze http://rivierabronze.com. The home is sited to take advantage of the corner lot and the views to Mummy Mountain. It is beautifully furnished by David Michael Miller in a well executed and sophisticated, serenity. Inspired from our team trips to research the style in Santa Barbara, and material and product research trips to London, NY, and San Luis Obispo, CA this project really is dialed in. The landscape design by Berghoff and the trimless plaster recessed light fixtures perfectly choreographed by Walter Spitz of CDL is exquisite.  Great job by my Project Architect, Jeff Kramer, AIA who led the team from start to finish. He is the best!

We also just completed this beautiful Rural Mediterranean Estate in Silverleaf. Built by Salcito Custom Homes http://salcito.com this home captures the essence of all of my inspiring trips to Italy. Again, we combined the talents of the same design team, David Michael Miller Interiors, Berghoff Design and Creative Designs in Lighting. We were blessed by having the client host an Open House a couple weeks ago which many attended!!! Some unique features include a flying bridge across part of the back yard with a cantilevered fire pit, indoor pizza oven in the Kitchen, 6 car garage on main level with a 13 car underground garage below, then add the extreme exercise room. This home is gorgeous and what a great team effort this was headed by Project Manager, Braden Santarcangelo, who took this home from the empty lot to the final product. Special thanks to MMPR Marketing http://mmprmarketing.com for orchestrating the Open House - it is so nice to have the opportunity to show one of these homes off!

Both of these homes are being featured in separate episodes on my series Architainment https://www.facebook.com/ArchitainmentCandelariaDesign
which will be on The Design Network http://www.thedesignnetwork.com right around the Holidays. We have been busy filming and will be featuring 5 projects in our initial season. Meanwhile, we had a fun time discovering the hot trends at the Market in Highpoint, NC and it was fun to be a part of and featured in The Hot List http://www.thedesignnetwork.com/viewSeries.php?series_id=48 on The Design Network. This episode has already had over 100,000 views so check it out! Please subscribe to the network and I will keep you posted when our first show premieres.

Then, in true Candelaria Design style we are always involved in the community. My Project Manager, Tim Mathewson is busy working the Charles and Megan Keller in the design of a new Bat Cave for their charity that gives a special child and their family and friends an evening at Wayne Industries and the Bat Cave complete with a spin in the Bat Mobile. One of their events was featured this week on the Today Show http://www.today.com/video/today/53552801/#53552801! More details to follow but as this comes together there will be some wonderful opportunities for the design and building community to help out.

This week we just embarked on the design of a Dream Room for the Phoenix Dream Center http://www.phxdreamcenter.org/about_us. This is the second year the Design and Construction Community has contributed time, effort, and materials to taking six rooms in an old Embassy Suites Hotel that is now the home for the Phoenix Dream Center and converting them into six beautiful Dream Rooms for girls and women looking for a fresh start in a place that is safe, has a feeling of home, and all filled with love! At the invitation of Mark and Chrissy Donnelly who are heading this up we are teamed up with Lynda Martin, ASID and Rebecca Arteaga of Camelback Interior Design http://lyndamartinasid.com, and John Gurley of RJ Gurley Custom Homes http://www.rjgurley.com and community leader and our Team Sponsor, Jerry Colangelo. We basically have 4 months to pull this all together and make a dream come true! Again more details to follow!

Also this month, many of my staff were proud to participate in the TGen Run/Walk/Dash to raise money for the Lee T/. Hanley Fund https://www.tgen.org/tgen-foundation/special-funds/lee-t-hanley-fund.aspx#.Uof5uaUeby9 for the fight against Pancreatic Cancer. Team Candelaria Design was a part of Team Lee in honor of our departed client, Lee Hanley, and in support of his lovely wife Nancy. Team Lee surpassed their fund raising goal and raised over $44,000.





We also just completed Phase One of the renovation to serval rooms at the Franciscan Renewal Center http://www.thecasa.org. Candelaria Design combined efforts with my wife, Isabel Candelaria, of Earth and Images http://www.earthandimages.com, and Chasse Building Team http://www.chassebuildingteam.com and my Project Manager, Braden Santarcangelo, who worked together to bring new life to 32 existing rooms. We also helped on the redesign of the pool area and plaza. This was capped off with a wonderful mass and evening with the Perricone Family who have contributed enormously to the CASA with the goal of making the Franciscan Renewal Center a world class spiritual retreat center.

Great trips to Italy, NC, SC and trips forthcoming to San Francisco to start work on a new home there and Michigan to start a new Lake House on the shores of Lake Michigan! We had our fabulous post Italy Trip party this week at Marcellino's! What fun that was. We have trips planned next year for May and September 2014. Anyone is welcome and I am sure my past travelers will attest it is a trip of a lifetime and a unique way to experience Italy. The May trip will feature the coast of Positano and the September trip will feature a return trip to Lake Como. You never know who might get married their next year!

We have also started design work for our new line of cabinets for Bentwood Luxury Kitchens http://www.bentwoodkitchens.com out of Dallas, TX! We are designing 5 lines that will feature the Candelaria Collection along side noted designer and architect, Jack Arnold. The Candelaria Collection will be marketed nationally in 2014. More details to follow.

Finally, a recipe. Everyone always asks for them and so here is one from our host in Italy, Elizabeth Wholey, from our trip in September. My girls and I enjoy making this and it's not as hard as it seems.  Enjoy!

Tiramisu

1 8-cup coffee pot full of fresh espresso
Approximately 1 pound ladyfingers (1/2 chilo Savoyard biscotti)
8 egg yolks
8 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 chilo (500 grams) fresh mascarpone

2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Powdered bitter cocoa

In a dry, deep bowl, whip the egg yolks together with the sugar until “you can write your name in it”, around 10 minutes. Add mascarpone and mix in. Smear a light layer of this cream mixture onto the bottom of a medium-size (approximately 7 by 11 inches) flat, rectangular baking dish.

Pour espresso coffee into a large, oval platter. Taking a ladyfinger (or Savoyard), dip the flat side of the biscuit in and out of the espresso, quickly so that it doesn’t become soaked through with coffee. Place coffee-side down onto the cream at one end of the baking dish and repeat the process, filling the bottom of the dish with ladyfingers. Pack them tightly.

Add another layer of cream on top of the ladyfingers, and then follow with another layer of coffee-dipped ladyfingers, and finishing with a layer of cream.

Finally, apply a light sifting of powdered bitter chocolate to cover the entire surface. Refrigerate for at least two hours before serving.

Now for a twist, I like to add a little Marsala wine-1/2 cup to it or Vin Santo. I also like to temper the eggs in a double boiler to make sure they are cooked - not scrambled!  When it looks like a custard its done! Make this the night before and let it set up over night. Your guests will love it. 

See you next weekend where Candelaria Design www.candelariadesign.com will do a feature on Thanksgiving!

2013 Scottsdale Charro Ride

It's that time of the year again for the Scottsdale Charro Ride. I went on my first ride some 8 years ago and I have to say it is one of my favorite things to do all year. It is definitely something out of my normal day-to-day world; riding horses, sleeping under the stars, and hanging out with 140 other "cowboys" for 4 days out in the middle of nowhere! I love it!

This year the ride is on the Babacomori Ranch south of Sonoita, AZ - which is southeast of Tucson and not far from the Mexican border. My good friend and past client, Dave Sabow, is putting the whole ride together. What a job-from coordinating all aspects of the ride from horses, food, booze, buses, etc., etc. its amazing how an open field in the dessert or forest can be transformed in a couple of days to, literally, a town! We even have a heated shower trailer... yes we do rough it but can you imagine four days and nights on horses without a heated shower?



Many people only know the Scottsdale Charros http://www.charros.com through our involvement at Scottsdale Stadium and the spring training for the San Francisco Giants and our revered Charro Lodge. But over the eight years I have been involved, I can say that it is very eye opening as to what our group does to support the community. Among the most notable accomplishments of the Scottsdale Charros is our dedication and support of excellence in education. For over 50 years, the Charros have provided time and financial support to athletic programs, parent-teacher organizations and the faculty of each school in the Scottsdale Unified School District. Recognizing the importance that education plays in the community's future, the Charros annually award college scholarship funds to two Scottsdale high school seniors who are pursuing a degree in education.

The ride is a total blast and always brings our group and guests together! Something about riding horses, smoking cigars, drinking whiskey out in the boonies is just damn good for a guy! I know i sure love it. From the pines and mountains of Greer to the saguaros of the Superstition Mountains, it has allowed me to visit and experience parts of this state I would have never seen otherwise! The laughs, the falls, the card games, the horseshoes, the meals and of course the day our wives and girlfriends arrive it all makes for a memorable and unique experience.

So I appreciate all the support we are given by the community. From those of you who just attended the Scottsdale Showdown, to those that come out to our Spring Training games we thank all of you!

Off to Highpoint, NC

Tomorrow Isabel and I head to Highpoint, NC to start our adventure with The Design Network and our show, Architainment. We will be joined by all of the stars of the network, promoting the new Fall lineup, the Design Network and the furniture capital of the world! I am looking forward to meeting everyone and have sure enjoyed all of the new shows released thus far! You will find an amazing array of topics, fabulous content, and photography all hosted by my fellow designers.

As many of you know we have been filming away. I thank ALL of the clients who have so graciously participated and opened their homes to us. We are fine tuning our first episode and like my homes, we are picking it apart clip by clip so please be patient as they are shooting for an October 29th premiere! When it is perfect - it will be done!







Here is a little intro about our show. I encourage you to subscribe to The Design Network www.thedesignnetwork.com now and you will receive notifications of the release of the show. Please share and enjoy!

I am an architect and designing homes is my passion. I have been drawing homes since I was four years old when my mom would take me to model homes on the weekend. I would take the brochures and then create my dream homes….I have been designing my dream homes now for nearly 50 years.

Over this course of time I have designed over 1000 homes in all parts of the United States, Canada and Mexico. From homes along the lakes of northern Idaho to homes overlooking the Sea of Cortez in Cabo San Lucas we have done it all.  From 1000 square foot condos, remodels and additions, to 55000 sf estates, from mountain lodges to formal mediterranean compounds, we have covered a wide range of sizes and styles.

Every project starts with a dream – it is my job as my client’s architect to fulfill and manifest that dream.  To do that I listen – and begin the search with sketches and concepts with the client virtually extracting the dream onto paper. My years of travel, combined with my repertoire of homes and clients, gives me an enormous portfolio of ideas, details, and solutions for how people want to live to draw upon.  Every client and home gets my personal attention. From the first meeting, to the initial sketches on paper to the day I actually cook dinner for my client in their new home, it is my passion to create a home that my client absolutely loves and a home that enhances the way they live and experience life every day!

A home is not created with a set of plans. The set of plans are only an instrument of intentions, dreams and ideas. A home is created by the collective and successful orchestration of the client, architect, builder, designer and vendors. It takes a TEAM and the better the team – including the client – the better the home that gets created. 

Our show Architainment will show you an array of the marvelous homes we have created over 35 years and the process, drawings, meetings, parties, trips, and passion that goes into creating them. 

Architainment ~ Showdown!

I love October! It's my favorite month of the year and of course my birthday is in October! The weather finally starts to change and it is like the whole outside opens up to our enjoyment! Football is starting the second quarter of the season, baseball playoffs are starting, hockey and basketball are getting underway....sports paradise.

And what better way to spend an October evening than at the Scottsdale Showdown http://scottsdaleshowdown.com on October 19th! See our blog from last week for all the details! Its all for a great cause so please join Isabel and I for some fun!







So - I understand there is a wonderful article about Candelaria Design and my career in the Arizona Republic this morning
http://www.azcentral.com/business/abg/articles/20131003drawing-client-skills.html .

Grab a copy and check it out. First and foremost, I want to thank EVERYONE  who helped me along the way. Especially my mentor, the late George W. Christensen, FAIA, who I had the pleasure to work with for over 18 years! Most people do not know that I never went to architecture school - I was fortunate to be the apprentice of one of the best professors of the ASU School of Architecture - and really learned everything the old fashioned way. I did take and pass all of the exams to get my license back in 1992 - so don't worry I am legal! In any event, there have been so many associates, clients, friends, and of course family that have made all of this possible. It's been quite a ride from driving the trains in Durango, CO to designing  amazing homes now all across the country! Hard work and a lot of luck and you know anything is possible.

Now onto another little project we are involved in - Architainment on The Design Network http://www.thedesignnetwork.com. Our show is about Design and Architecture and making the process of design entertaining. The Design Network is a broadband internet network - so you will not find us on TV, however by being on a broadband channel we are always available and anyone in the world can access us!  We are excited to showcase our work, our trips, our clients, builders, vendors, and friends. We really want to show people that some of the amazing ideas, concepts, and the way people live in many of our multi-million homes can be incorporated in the design and lifestyle of a 1500 sf condo - and we want to do this in an entertaining way.

We have been filming the last two weeks and have really been having some fun filming all phases of the design process from an initial client meeting on their lot to cooking with a client in their brand new home and then everything in between! I want to thank everyone who has agreed to participate and we are doing our best to get as many of you involved. We are committed to five shows this fall and then we will see if they pick us up for the spring season! SO we will need a lot of viewers so make sure you subscribe!!!

In two weeks Isabel and I will head to Highpoint, NC for the market and the gathering of all of The Design Network stars for some parties, filming and kicking off the fall season! It should be a lot of fun, a great opportunity for all of us to meet, connect, and of course cross market. Our first episode of Architainment https://www.facebook.com/ArchitainmentCandelariaDesign is scheduled to premiere towards the end of October and our banner page will be posted soon. So stayed tuned - we are going to have some fun!

Scottsdale Showdown!!!

Ok, we are back from our Candelaria Design Tour Italy and our fabulous finale' wedding at Villa d'Este on Lake Como and its time to get back into everything I love about fall in Arizona.

First, a sincere thank you to everyone from Isabel and I for our wedding! You can enjoy a quick video I put together if you care to enjoy our special day! https://www.dropbox.com/s/bpxikl5wv05ui3n/Mark%26IsabelWedding.mov
And some nice photos on Arizona Redbook at http://www.azredbook.com/partiesarticle?id=1368.


Now - onto something in totally the opposite direction... PRO BULL RIDING!  So who is ready to get the Tony Llamas on and get down to some real fun on a Saturday night?

Yes, as many of you know I am very proud to be a Grande member of the Scottsdale Charros! Founded in 1961 as a special activity organization of the Scottsdale Chamber of Commerce, the Scottsdale Charros consist of 40 Active members and over 200 Life and Grande members dedicated to serving the community through the promotion and support of education, youth programs, and economic development that preserves the past while looking to the future. Many of you know the Charros for our Charro Lodge at the Scottsdale Stadium for Spring Training for the San Francisco Giants but now we are adding a fall venue that ties into our Cowboy style by adding Championship Pro Bull Riding! http://www.scottsdaleshowdown.com

CBR Bull Riding & Concert in Scottsdale

On Saturday, October 19th at 4pm we will kick things off at the Westworld Equidome with a Chevy Silverado tailgate party that will definitely get you ready for what will be an amazing evening. After a little tailgating the All Star Championship Bull Riding Event will begin inside the Equidome at 6pm. The event will be nationally televised on the Fox Sports Network. That's only the beginning....that is all followed up with the KMLE Country - Bud Light Bullpen Concert featuring a triple threat of country music, Maggie Rose, Jerrod Niemann, and then Montgomery Gentry. The concert starts at 8pm and will run until midnight!

Tickets are available at  http://www.scottsdaleshowdown.com 

SCOTTSDALE SHOWDOWN TICKET PRICES

·        Chevy Silverado Chute Out / CBR All Star Bull Riding Event                   $75 – 150 each

(General Admission VIP & Reserved Seating -Includes Tailgate Party, Chute-Out and Bullpen Concert ++)

·        Bud Light Bullpen Concert ONLY                                                             $55 each

(General Admission)

·        Bud Light Bullpen Concert Cabana Package                                             $10,000 

(Contact: Lauren Smith at lauren@agency210.com to reserve)

Isabel and I will be there and ready to enjoy a fabulous evening that should be a lot of fun all while knowing it is going to a great cause supporting the Scottsdale Charro charities! Please help me help my Charros make this a total success and get the cowboy/cowgirl attire on and let's go kick up some dust and throw back a few brews!

Candelaria Design Tour Italy ~ Day 10 ~ Last Day In Umbria and the Country

Well we have been going strong for nine days and on Day 11 we depart Umbria and drive several hundred miles to the northwest of Italy and Lake Como. So we make Day 9 a day to chill and just relax at the Country Houses and virtually everyone took advantage of it – including me.

I think Isabel and I slept in until 10 am had some coffee, relaxed, worked on the blogs, got some computer time in, got some laundry done, and then it was time for a two hour nap.

Others also slept in, hung out by the pool or went for little jaunts around the countryside as every couple ahs their own car. Some went to Cortona, some went to Lake Trasimeno, some to Preggio and some to Umbertide for a festival. That is the beauty of this trip – you have your own car and so although there is an itinerary you have freedom.

As the day wound down and we all realized we still had a lot of leftovers from the week it was Pot Luck Happy Hour in Umbria. Glen and Steve made their way into Umbertide and found a butcher and snagged an amazing 2” thick steak which they grilled on the grill we all mastered during our cooking class just two nights before. The rest of us all pitched in with different dishes and wow what a spread we created out of nothing!

You realize at that point the one, main, unique aspect of this trip and that is the bond that is created between my travelers on every trip. It is an amazing thing to see a group of virtually complete strangers at the start of the trip become such good friends so quickly that you would swear they had been friends for 40 years. I LOVE that part of this trip. I know now why it happens and why Italy and its culture is so special. It has to do with the preparation and enjoyment of food, wine and company over several hours. Not a rushed dinner with the TV on and no one really engaged. When we cook in these houses it is a 4-6 hour party filled with laughter, great smells, dancing, tastes, and magical conversations and images that imprint on your memory forever. I think it pulls a subliminal and primal part of our humanity that man and womankind have shared since the days we lived in caves and collectively hunted and gathered to survive.  It is special and only those that have been on this trip truly understand what I am talking about here – but it is real and it is most definitely lasting.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy ~ Day 9 ~ San Gimignano & Siena

After yesterday's dreamlike experience of our splendid wedding it was time to get up at 4 am this morning and fly home....ahhh what a slap back to reality.....

Well we are flying somewhere over the Atlantic and after two movies, three naps, and a horrible airplane panini, after two weeks of food heaven, it seemed like a good time to catch up on the blog and the missing days between our Day 8 and Day 13. So here is Day 9 our trip to San Gimignano and Siena.

As with all the other days of our trip I love this day too. We started about 10 am allowing a little recovery time from the 6 hour cooking class feast from the night before. We set up our convoy and we were off over the hill and onto the highway bypassing Siena first and off to the country medieval village of San Gimignano.

San Gimignano is a beautiful medieval hilltown set in the hills and vineyards north of Chianti. What's sets this town apart are the seven towers that are still standing from the original 34 that once were there. We parked after a little trepidation due to the traffic from this towns tourist popularity. We walked up the hill and to the main street lined with beautiful stone buildings forming a canyon only interrupted by two delightful piazzas that when we arrived were filled with vendors for the morning market. As we made our way from shop to shop and to a stop for a quick bite and then a gelato the market had ended and the vendors packed up and you could experience the piazzas in a totally different way.

It is always easy to stay on the main road and be enslaved by the shops and tourist shops selling wine and cheap Pinocchio puppets but what you really need to do is wander up a tower or off a side road to the perimeter of the village for an amazing view of the countryside and back at the town. I love the age and feel of the buildings and the smattering of these dramatic and stoic towers. Your mind wonders what this village must have been like back in the dark ages or during the black plague and what life and culture must have been like in those days! The preservation of the architecture and absence of cars made this very easy to do and for a moment you could almost transpose yourself back 700 years!

With San Gimignano explored it was time to return to the cars, do our best to reassemble the convoy and make our way out of San Gimignano and down the winding hills and southward towards Siena - the rival of Florence!

We Google mapped my favorite parking lot in Siena and we all gradually found our way  to the lot and some spots to park. About a 15 minute walk and we were in a walled city. I LOVE Siena! It is probably my favorite city in Italy...at least so far!  We walked down the main boulevard - all 20' in maximum width with 6 - 8 story buildings forming a winding canyon all leading to the exclamation of this city - the Piazza Del Campo. This is truly one of the best spaces in the world. Home of the annual Palio horse race held each July where each neighborhood in Siena challenges each other in a free for all horse race around the outer perimeter of this piazza.

We made our way to our final rendezvous spot, determined what time we would all meet here and then I led everyone to the Duomo for a tour of again, probably one of the best churches in Italy. Again, I love this structure and I am always in awe in the design and craftsmanship that was employed in its execution. It is truly a miracle and masterpiece of what man can produce when inspired. This year was special in that a series of the floor panels were uncovered for viewing and we were fortunate to have scheduled our trip during this period! Spectacular!!! This is definitely one of the must sees for any trip to Italy!

With the tour of the Duomo completed it was time to wander through town and back to the Piazza Del Campo and my favorite spot on the far Northeast corner of the piazza. Isabel and I sat down and ordered some grilled vegetables and mixed grilled meats and of course a bottle of wine. Then you just sit and enjoy life - people strolling around and through the piazza - no cars, just the background sound of people speaking Italian and the ever changing light at dusk was slowly descending on this Italian masterpiece of space and life.

Gradually all of our travelers trickled to our rendezvous spot and joined Isabel and I and the laughter and conversations became more and more amplified and animated as we consumed more wonderful food and wine and a cigar or two. The rest of the patrons of the piazza also shared the enhanced tempo and soon the entire space was filled with laughter and happiness!

We also were able to surprise one of our travelers, Barbara Murphy, with a little birthday celebration which was a lot of fun. With several hours of enjoying the slow sunset and then the lights of the piazza come alive along with the patrons it was time to pull ourselves away and start the walk back to the cars.... But first, one more gelato! 

Candelaria Design Tour Italy - Day 13 - The Grand Finale'

Ok - so I skipped a few days to get to day 13. I will catch up later......

I will post this now and add more pictures later as we are just heading to dinner and then I have to round up my travelers and catch our planes back home in just 10 hours..... so please bear with me. There are several pictures on my personal Facebook Page but more to come here later....so stay tuned.

I skipped to day 13 of our Candelaria Design Tour Italy as today is our final day here and we made it our best day of the trip - the day Isabel and I said our vows and formed a bond that we will share until the last days of our lives. Yes we tied the knot on our last day here in Italy at the Villa d'Este on the terrace by the lake with our Candelaria Tour Italy travelers as our witnesses and guests.

No one on the trip knew we had this on the agenda for the last day of the trip. Isabel and I had been talking about where and when to set our special day and we both realized that Italy is so beautiful, and we have shared so many great times and memories with our travelers, that this would be the perfect way to end the trip and start our journey together. So when we arrived, Evelyn and my staff had beautiful invite cards made that the hotel placed on each traveler's beds upon their arrival letting them know that they were all invited to our special day on their last day in Italy.

Yesterday it rained all day but the hotel staff promised me it would be sunny for the wedding. They made good on their promise and we had a beautiful day. The wedding was at 11 am under the sunshine of a beautiful Italian fall day! The breeze blew lightly and the leaves of the trees of Lake Como waved a soft tempo that set the tone for the day. All 20 of our guests arrived on the terrace and the quartet of violins and cellos started to play The Prayer by Andrea Botecelli and Celine Dion. Little did we realize, John Legend who was staying in our hotel, watched the whole event from his balcony while sipping champagne.

Isabel stroll through the garden led by her escort, Glen Wysel, who filled in for her father. I would say he did a terrific job. Walter Spitz, who flew in a few days before accompanied our good friend, Rebecca Curtis down the aisle and the ceremony was set.

We said our vows along the side of the lake and it was like absolute magic. My Isabel is so beautiful, and add the flowers, the sunshine, the fall breeze and the sound of the water and it was truly magic. One of the most spiritual moments of my life.

Once I kissed the bride we all went and took pictures in the beautiful gardens of Villa d'Este and then had cocktails and appetizers on the terrace under the sunshine with the lovely music of the string quartet. From there we adjourned to the dining room for a lovely 3 hour lunch in the most amazing setting and the food was out of this world.


With lunch enjoyed, it was back onto the terrace for cake and more prosecco and then a three hour boat ride on Lake Como with my bride and a trip to Bellagio for more champagne, a cappuccino, a cigar and views of the villas of George Clooney, Sir Richard Branson, Versace, and many others. What a way to spend the day.

We returned to the hotel for a little relaxation and then it was off to dinner with our entire group for our final evening at the lovely restaurant, Gatto di Nero, with none other than John Legend! What an amazing and lovely day.

I cannot express the gratitude I have for everyone on this trip and my friends who have all stuck by my side through the last 5 years. I must also send special thanks to Evelyn who organized the most spectacular day you could ever imagine! And finally, I must thank the special woman who has made all of my dreams come true...my Isabel. I have truly found my soulmate, my lover, but most importantly my best friend. I love you my dear and this day will live forever.

Ciao from all of us here in Italy.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy ~ Day 8 ~ Farmer’s Market, Lacole’ and Cooking in Umbria

This is always one of my favorite days of the trip. It’s basically a simple day in Umbria and then the 6 hour cooking and eating class at our country houses hosted by Elizabeth Wholey, our house host and author of her new book, Sustenance – Food Traditions in Italy’s Heartland.

We start the day with a quick drive into our nearby town of Umbertide right on the Tiber River. Once we got everyone parked we made our way to the main piazza and the scene of the weekly Farmer’s Market in Umbria. I love this whole experience – food and people! It is definitely as much a social event as a food and shopping event. The little coffee bars are packed with locals and tourists all conversing with their voices and hands in typical Italian fashion.

 

My first, and most decadently, my last stop here in Umbertide, was the porchetta sandwich truck! I think just about everyone grabbed one either on the way in or the way out of town – as I said I made the most of both coming and going! I love these sandwiches – basically a couple slices of meat and a couple slices of the crispy fat from a whole roasted herb infused pig laid in a French roll. Heaven in Umbria.

From there we made it to the main piazza for a walk around the food vendors and to the coffee bar for a cappuccino. We all caught up and discussed our shopping strategies and we were off for more shopping. At the main piazza where the food vendors are located you can find meat, cheeses, fish, flowers, fruits, herbs, plants for your garden, etc., etc. Then outside of the main piazza and off to the side of the main part of the old city are the street vendors selling everything from shoes, to kitchen ware to under garments!  A quick stroll through that part and it was back to the rendezvous spot and that second porchetta sandwich! 

Some of the travelers then ventured back to the country houses and some ventured with me to Lacole’. Isabel took the day off and relaxed at the houses and caught up on a bit of work. Others returned and went on their own little explorations around the area. Many went to the village of Preggio up on the hill.

My group went to Lacole’ – an amazing and huge showroom and outside garden full of everything from antique furniture, to fireplaces, to doors, to tableware, urns, roughs, gate, reclaimed tiles, fountains, etc., etc. It is pretty endless and all salvaged from old villas and farmhouses throughout Italy.  On virtually every trip to Lacole’ we have been met with a torrential downpour and this year was no exception. Fortunately it was during the drive and upon our arrival the rain stopped, the clouds broke, and we once again had brilliant sunshine.

We spent about an hour at Lacole’ exploring the rows and rows of treasures.  We grabbed a soft drink and some snacks at the next door gasomat and then we rendezvoused with Gabrielle who took us to their two new antique door showrooms and warehouses.  We are designing a home for one traveler couple, Glen and Lisa Wysel, and they said they would love to see some doors….and doors we saw! From 15^th Century salvaged antique doors to reproductions they have created from reclaimed wood. All spectacular!!!

With  the door and antique shopping completed it was a quick 40 minute drive back to the country houses in Umbria for our cooking class! This is always one of the best moments and one of the most bonding moments on the trip! This year proved no different.

As we arrived, Elizabeth, Paula and Fausto were getting things ready and prepped!

We did the same by getting the wine bottles opened and our aprons on.  We started with stuffing little sweet peppers with ground sausage and cheese. We prepared deviled eggs stuffed with tartufo. We made a ricotta dip and prepped veggies for dipping, then cut up fennel, zucchini, and sage and got those ready for some frying! Then it was time to make our tomato sauce and our pasta fresca – fresh home made pasta! Yes the party had started!

Meanwhile the men were getting the coals ready at the grill! We prepped the pork shoulder and the sausages for the grille and kept the fire stoked while we enjoyed vino and a cigar. It was then back up to the pasta table to knead the dough and start feeding it through the pasta machine. Then grab some more wine and back to the grille to keep the fire burning.

 

By then the appetizers where done – the stuffed peppers, the ricotta dip and veggies, the fried sage, fennel and zucchini and the food coma began! Nothing better than fennel dipped in flour salt and fizzy water then fried in 350º oil just like in tempura – amazing!  Then the pasta was cooking stuffed with ricotta and spinach and then the Fausto had the sausages and pork shoulder grilling! Wow what an assortment of amazing smells.

We had been cooking since 4pm and now, 4-1/2 hours later it was time for dinner! Antipasti, wine, salad, wine, pasta, wine, pork shoulder and sausage and more wine! I love Italy! After some toasts to our chefs, a few songs and a little dancing it was time to wind down this wonderful day in our little piece of heaven in Umbria!

Candelaria Design Tour Italy ~ Day 7 ~ Wine Tour with Pino in Chianti

Pino Teresi - 2004

I met Pino Teresi in 2000 on my first trip to Italy as I was introduced by our first Candelaria Tour Italy host, Louis Martin. She told us of a wonderful man who spoke very good English that could take us on a wonderful tour through Tuscany to see and taste some amazing wines, cheeses, meats and oils. What a find he has been. I have been on at least 8 tours since.

Pino Teresi - 2013 - Looking good!

We started the day with coffee on the terrace and then a quick dash to the little coffee/breakfast bar in Mercatale where we would rendezvous with Pino as he had reserved a bus for all of us. We quickly grabbed a panini and some coffee - some of us ordered a latte only to fined that means warm milk - and made our way onto the bus. Greg had attempted to get some cash out of the town ATM but the ATM machine must have been hungry too and ate their card for breakfast! Luckily, they had another, called their bank and it was off to Tuscany.

Today our tour was the Chianti region of Tuscany. After a two hour windy bus ride and a little adventure along the way we made it to our first stop, the Castelo di Meleto for a quick walk around their grounds as we were too early for a tasting. What a beautiful place, with the most lovely gardens. I had been here in 2004 and remembered how gorgeous this place was. We all took several pictures and enjoyed the surrounding scenery and sunshine and we were off to our first official tasting!

It was now noon and time to enjoy some wine. Our next stop was the Castelo d'Albola which is a beautiful winery in Chianti. Gorgeous grounds and some amazing wine and vin santo (dessert wine) cellars. Following our tour of the cellars it was off to the tasting room for some of their wines. We tried roughly five wines starting with their Chardonnay which was light and crisp and more like a Sauvignon Blanc - very delightful and I'd have to say this would be my kind of Chardonnay. Then it was time to try their Chiantis of which their Reserve was the best.  Finally, we finished with a Vin Santo. Beautiful!

Following our tasting it was off to lunch in the Chianti countryside. We enjoyed a beautiful lunch featuring a variety of crostinis, a delicious spaghetti, and a farrow salad with cucumbers, tomatoes and red onions. All delicious. Of course red wine and lemoncello for dessert.

Then it was off to the capital of Chianti, Greve. I love this little town. We stopped at an amazing cellar, shop, wine tasting store - Le Cantine de Greve in Chianti where they had carousels of different wines featured, you buy a prepaid card, plug it into a reader and choose the wine tastings you want to explore. Loved it. We spent a good hour here trying wines, grappas, vin santos and oils. Everything from Chiantis to Brunellos, to Amarones. The Amarone was the best!

From here we went to the main piazza to shop and enjoy the most amazing butcher shop. Spectacular - it just went on and on. I wish I could infuse the blog with all the smells from the cellars and meat shops from this day! Following the tour of Greve we were off to the Balsamic Vinegar cellar in Montagliari where we toured their cellars and sampled and purchased some twenty and thirty year old balsamic vinegars that were more like delicious syrups. Amazing!

From there it was a long 2-3 hour bus ride through pouring rain back to our little Niccone Valley in Umbria where a seven course meal was waiting for us at Mimmi's. This meal, family prepared each day, is served country style with a pitcher of local farmer's wine on the table. Once the food starts coming it just keeps coming. We started with cheeses and meets and then grilled vegetables. We then went to two pasta dishes, raviolis and then manicotti, then onto roasted pork and turkey and more vegetables and then for dessert it was panna cotta with an espresso glaze and tiramisu. Fabulous.

A quick walk to the cars and drive home to our little country houses in Umbria. We were now halfway done with our adventure through Italy with an amazing half yet to come.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy ~ Day 6 - Assisi

We started the morning by slowly awaking in the darkness to the sound of thunder, wind, and rain! You are lying in a farmhouse in the middle of nowhere in Umbria and you realize that what you are experiencing what others for hundreds of years have experience right in this same valley. You feel such a connection to the earth and this land and the souls who must still wander here!

Slowly you come back to the 21st century and realize you need to get up and get some coffee brewing. The rain was already subsiding and the light of the dawn was starting to drape the hills and burn the mist and fog. About that point, Scott awoke and joined me and I convinced him to join me to brave the remaining showers and semi darkness to find the wood pile so we could make a fire in the fireplace before everyone arose. We got that going and the coffee was ready so I had some time to work on my blog, download pictures, and charge up my cameras and phone for the upcoming day.

Once that was caught up and I could hear people stirring so it was time to make breakfast!  From the market we had purchased potatoes, eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, and pancetta. Scott and I got to work. I sent him down to grab some fresh herbs from the garden including rosemary, sage and thyme. We chopped potatoes, mushrooms and tomatoes, diced the pancetta, and scrambled the eggs and breakfast was underway!

With breakfast enjoyed, it was off to Assisi! About an 80 minute drive through the Tiber River valley bypassing Perugia, and then ascending the hill to Assisi we all found our way to the top parking lot. We all gathered and made our way to the center piazza which would be our gathering spot. From there we made our way to the Cattedrale San Francesco - the Saint Francis Cathedral. Many of my travelers took the tour through - which I highly recommend. Isabel and I had done it several times on past trips so we made it back to the main square where we enjoyed a wonderful lunch and then a cannoli and a gelato and then a nap on the steps of the piazza. Slowly everyone made there way back to the piazza after all dining in their own unique finds. We all grabbed a drink and made our way back to our cars for the drive home.

We had originally planned to go to Perugia after Assisi but everyone was ready to go back to the country houses to relax, nap, and rejuvenate! After a two hour nap for some and a swim for some others it was time to grab dinner. Glen, Isabel, and I headed to town where I knew a great spot for "take-away"  pizzas and salad. We selected 9 different pizzas, some insalata mistas and some melon and prosciutto and placed our order. The lady who runs the restaurant and bar said it would take about an hour so we thought we would walk down the street to the market to pick up supplies for the house. No sooner did we get there, when the restaurant owner came rushing in to purchase all of the ingredients for our order! We literally helped her carry everything back to the kitchen, ordered a bottle of wine and sat down on the street out front to watch the locals make their way through town and in and out of the restaurant! What fun to experience something like that - no one spoke English and I'm sure we stuck out like sore thumbs!

I ducked in and watched the chef make the pies and enjoyed tying to chat with him while taking pictures all along the way. The pizzas came together, went in the oven and we were getting close. We finished our bottle of wine and enjoyed some more of the locals while Glen, Isabel and I compared our journeys through life and swapped stories about our kids and our pasts!

Once everything was done, we loaded the 9 pizza boxes, the salads, and melons and headed back home and up the hill! When we arrived, the party had started and the jug wine was open! With food, wine and everyone rested we enjoyed a nice meal at the country houses, followed by some more wine and cigars, along with more stories about life, all while on the porch watching the sliver of the new moon set over the hills of Umbria.

Just another marvelous day in Umbria. 

Candelaria Design Tour Italy ~ Day 5 ~ Villa Piazzano & Cortona

Sunday, Day 5, is our first full day in Umbria and our country houses. We started the day by enjoying the view of the fog filled Niccone Valley and the soft sun lit hills of Umbria. I love this view which is very common and very magical as the fog wafts around the hills only broken by  the gradual enhancement of the sun until it gains the upper hand and burns off the fog until the next morning and then the whole show repeats itself.

With the coffee brewing we all got ready for a wonderful day in the country. With that delicious Italian coffee to wake us all up we were off through the Niccone Valley and up and over the hills down to the beautiful valley where the Villa Piazzano lies.

We turned off the main road and started down a long straight one lane gravel road lined by 400 year old Italian cypress trees that flank each side in a rhythm that nearly hypnotizes you into a feeling that something very special is about to happen - and of course it does....the Villa Piazzano. This is another one of my favorites, especially because it was a place that I accidentally discovered on my first trip in 2000. When I came upon it by randomly picking a dirt road to follow I happened upon the villa which was an overgrown ruin. A group of people, from Australia, were walking around seemingly exploring it also. I went up and asked them if they knew what this was, and they offered in a bewildered manner that it was an old villa that they had just purchased and they were going to restore it. I knew they had their hands full and I could see the same trepidation, yet underlying passion, to undertake this endeavor. I returned the next year to be stunned at what they had accomplished and enjoyed my first meal with them. It has been a regular stop now on every tour and I have become good friends with the family who go out of their way to accommodate us in the most elegant manner.

This year was no exception. We started with a little tour of their grounds and garden while they completed our tables following their morning breakfast to their patrons. When we arrived a beautiful table awaited us and inside was their typical, colorful and most savory array of foods from fruits, to pastries, to eggs, vegetables, meats, cheeses, and of course sweets! It is fantastic and sitting on the terrace overlooking the pool and grounds is so picturesque.

With brunch completed we took a group picture at the steps into the topiary garden, and then were given a tour of the villa, now a hotel, and the wine cellar. It's fascinating to hear the history of this villa which dates back to the 13th - 14th century. The wine cellar is wonderful - the smell alone is most memorable as it was occupied by the German army who upon fleeing cut holes in all the casks and filled the cellar with wine. When the owner returned upon the exit of the Germans, they invited all of the neighborhood farmers to bring buckets and get the wine. You can still smell that wine!

Our original plan was to have brunch and then head to Arezzo for the antique fair, and then Cortona for dinner but I could see that my group was fading from the Candelaria pace,  so I offered them the option to head back to the country houses for a little rest and recuperation and they eagerly took me up on it. So back over the hill we went and everyone hunkered down for a most common Italian siesta.

With a nice two and a half hour nap everyone was ready for some more fun and so it was back down the hill, through the valley and up and over the next hill and then through the next valley and then back up the hill to Cortona, famed for the movie and much better book, Under the Tuscan Sun. I really love Cortona. It is a happening little hill town and this Sunday was no exception! We parked and made our way as a group to our ultimate restaurant destination so everyone knew where it was and then we had two hours to shop and explore the town. The town has a main thoroughfare that traverses the town on a pretty level grade, lined with shops, enotecas, and trattorias, but the key is to wander the streets that bisect and go straight up or straight down - that is where the treasures are to be found. From amazing galleries to wine stores, we uncovered some more amazing spots.

With our exploring completed, and thank goodness a little walking included, it was time to enjoy some more Italian and Tuscan cuisine. So off we went to the Trattoria Toscana for an amazing dinner. We started with some local wines of course and then some antipasto including beef tongue in a spicy red sauce, wild boar carpaccio with parmesan cheese shavings and rocket arugula, then insalata mist, followed by an array of pastas and then grilled sirloin with white truffle shavings and a grilled porcini mushroom. Finish dinner off with a little home-made vinsanto and WOW! And the prices where less and less as we wandered further off the beaten path! An amazing meal and everyone enjoyed the laughter and good times.

We then made our way back through town, a quick photo with some old men observing life from their bench, a stop for gelato and a purchase of some cigars and we were off through the now quieter streets to our cars and back to our homes in Umbria for a great night sleep in the country.

Candelaria Design Tour italy ~ Day 4 ~ On the road to Umbria

Today we make the transition from the hustle and bustle of Florence and make our way to the calm and serenity of Umbria.

We start the day with a quick jaunt to the Mercato San Lorenzo and a little food shopping. I love this place - and wish we had something like this in Phoenix. I would probably live there! From mushrooms, to cuts of meat, fish, baked items, to fruits, herbs and flowers - it's all here and all arranged in typical Italian fashion - beautiful and artful. Even the smells are amazing as you transition from one venue to the other.

I picked up some shrink wrapped risotto, some salami and truffle honey in preparation for the Country Houses in Umbria. We spent about an hour, grabbed a cappuccino and made our way back to the hotel to pack up and get ready for both the worst and best part of this trip. The worst being transitioning everyone to the rental cars and getting everyone on the highway and the best part arriving at the country houses in Umbria. I guess there is a price to pay for such joy.





We packed up and said our goodbyes to the wonderful staff of the Hotel Brunellschi - especially Fabiola who always takes such amazing care of all of us. I highly recommend this hotel for the location, beauty and impeccable service. We then loaded the luggage and took our transport vans from the Hotel Brunelleschi to the rental car lots at the airport. I like getting the cars here as you can virtually drive off the lot, make a hairpin turn and boom you are on the A11 Autostrada and then right on the A1 for Roma.











There is always a fair amount of anxiety when you have 18 people all of sudden being asked to drive their own car especially after spending three days in Florence witnessing some of the craziest driving I've ever seen. But that is in the city and we stay far way from places like that. After getting everyone checked into the rental cars we spend a fair amount of time making sure everyone has a dropped pin in their phone to the country houses in Umbria, and that everyone's maps are marked. We have had some real adventures getting people to the country houses. Not so much from Florence, but some of our episodes from Rome to the country houses have been quite memorable....we will skip the details.

This years drive went without a hitch. Nine cars streaming down the A1 and into the countryside. I think we either looked like a funeral procession or the Secret Service! After about 2-1/2 hours we climbed over the mountains and into the Niccone valley whose river divides Tuscany from the west side of the valley from Umbria on the east side. It is beautiful, tranquil and most fertile with an assortment of crops being grown from corn, to sunflowers to tobacco. The smell of the earth and Umbria is infused in the wines that I enjoy later. I love it here. You can just feel the calm and the relaxed way of life, especially from the constant buzz of Florence.

We make our way to the foot of the hill that leads us up a long, steep and dusty road that eventually concludes at our destination, - the Altabella Country Houses. I love how remote these homes are and the wonderment of my travelers with how I ever found this place....that is a story in itself. This trip we have two, two-story farmhouses with a gorgeous negative edge, Italian cypress lined pool overlooking the valley below.







 After settling in and unloading the luggage we made our way down to the pool for a refreshing dip and a glass of wine and then loaded up and made our way back down the hill to the little market in Mercatale - the village in the valley. With 18 of us descending on this store, I think we just about cleaned them out - I'm sure we made their day! Everything from eggs, to cheese to the local jug wine, we were ready for a wonderful week here in Umbria.

Upon our return, our home manager, chef, owner and author, Elizabeth Wholey, and her sidekick Paola, prepared us a meal of local cheeses and honeys, local salamis, truffle hardboiled eggs, lasagna with fresh made pasta, an absolutely delicious salad dressed with local olive oil, apple vinegar and honey. Finally it was capped off with panna cotta (cooked cream) with fruitti di Boscho - wild fruits from the forest. There is nothing better than enjoying laughter, amazing food, local wines and the fabulous view of the hills of Tuscany and Umbria. It was  a wonderful way to start our adventures here in Umbria.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy - Day 3 ~ Firenze

We only have one full day in Firenze and so everyone has a lot of exploring to get done in a very fast day. We started the day with a walk through the city at 6am. Six of my travelers joined me and were blessed to see this city in a very unique and quiet manner. At 6 am you own the streets and you see the town in a way few do, without people!

I love this walk. It is cool, the light of the dawn is forthcoming and slowly the town comes to life right before you eyes. I start the walk from the Brunellschi Hotel and make our way to the Cattedrale Santa Maria del Fiore and again experience this space free of the tourists and the street vendors. Its beautiful and most inspiring to just imagine everything that went into the creation of this marvelous structure and the people who contributed to its manifestation. It is, as so many things in Italy are, indescribable.

After several snapshots there we moved on to the Piazza della Signoria which sits in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, the famed town hall of Florence, the governing home of the Medici family, and the site of the original David sculpture by Michaelangelo. I love this building - it is my favorite in Florence primarily because of the map and globe room inside. If you get the chance read Dan Brown's latest book, Inferno, as he spends a fair amount of time in this building. Again, I love the shots I can get with not a soul in site and the light just getting better and better.

We then wander through the Piazziale degli Uffizi to the Arno river and the famed Ponte Vecchio bridge. From there we made our way to the Pitti Palace and then through the south side neighborhoods to the Ponte all a Carraia across the Arno to the north side and then down the beautiful shopping street of the Via della Vigna Nuova and back to the Piazza della Repubblica where we stopped for a cappuccino and then back to the hotel.

It was about 8am and I headed back to the room to freshen up and join Isabel for our day. We walked Barbara and Molly to the Galleria dell' Accademia where they had a private tour of the Gallery and of course the rear David sculpture. The rest of my travelers were on their own private tours of the city.

Isabel and I took a stroll through the city, enjoyed a few more churches and sites and headed back to the hotel for a siesta. At 2pm we met at the lobby of the hotel where we went on a private walking tour of the city and enjoyed many sites. There is always so much to learn, and the private walking tours with just 4 or 5 people is the best way to do it.

Once the tour was over, we grabbed a quick bite and made our way to the hotel for a little more jet lag catch up rest and then it was time for one of our included premiere dinners - Villa San Michele. This is truly one of the best venues to dine I have ever experienced. A former monastery designed by none other than Michaelangelo himself, this hotel restaurant and staff are truly memorable. We have dined here every year for the last eight years and even though it is at the beginning of the trip, it truly one of the most memorable moments of the trip.

You drive up the hills northeast of Florence and then arrive at this beautiful stone and stucco facade with the most breathtaking and romantic views of Florence. After a few pictures of the group its inside, through the monastery and to the back terrace garden for bellinis and appetizers. We enjoy the sunset and then its onto the loggia and our table at the far west end where we are met by my same waiter over the course of the last 8 years, Antanelo. He is the best! We had selected the menu and paired the wines starting with a lobster salad, followed by a wild mushroom ravioli, and then the roast sirloin with a brunello wine sauce and finally crepes and a dessert wine. Fantastic and what a wonderful time with my travelers.

A cab ride home and a few nitecaps and a cigar on the terrace in front of the hotel and before we knew it we were into day 4!