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The Scottsdale architectural firm of Candelaria Design Associates is one of the premier luxury residential architecture firms in the country. Enjoy our blog which features our work, our travel, our recipes, wines, tips on design and decorating, and the lives of our clients and employees, etc.....its all the ingredients for the Candelaria Design Lifestyle. Contact Candelaria Design to start your dream residence 602-604-2001!
Candelaria Design Tour Italy - Day 2 - The Endless Journey
Now they are rerouting us through Paris but our flight here in Amsterdam is now delayed due to our jet not arriving on time! It looks like we will now be missing our connecting flight in Paris and hence not getting to Florence this evening. We won't know our fate for sure until we get to Paris. I suppose if I am going to be stuck some place, Paris is not a bad choice.
So we have been catching some sleep here in Amsterdam and mixing in a little champagne....not a bad combo for jet lag. We have been trying to get a direct flight to Florence but our bags are headed to Paris and we have to follow our bags due to security issues. Well, we will carry on and see where this Day 1 / Day 2 adventure leads us! Stay tuned!
Day 1 - Candelaria Design Tour Italy Departure!
We invite you to follow our journey here on our blog and on our Facebook Page - http://www.facebook.com/CandelariaTourItaly
Everyone was up early and I think most of us are still half asleep but you can definitely feel the excitement in everyone and I know we all just want to get there and get the trip underway. I like to break the flight up so instead of flying directly to Rome we stop somewhere on the east coast for a few hours to grab some dinner, stretch, walk-around, make those last calls and emails and then we catch a flight over the ocean during the evening hours which makes it a lot easier to sleep. We arrive in Amsterdam ready to go, where we will enter the Eurozone and go through customs and then its a short flight over France and the Swiss Alps and then we drop down to Florence. We arrive around noon tomorrow!
We will do our best to post daily and we hope you live vicariously through our blog and Facebook Page. LIKE our page while you are there.
Kicking Off Our 2012 Candelaria Design Tour italy
We begin the Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2012 trip this Wednesday! We have a fun group going with travelers coming from both ends of this country - LA to South Carolina and of course many from Arizona.
We leave early Wednesday morning and arrive in Florence, Italy this Thursday! I have three people who have been to Italy before but most have never been to Europe. So I am very exited to share this trip with them. This is our 9th Candelaria Design Tour and over that course of time we have really fine tuned this trip. Our travelers this year are in for a real treat and what a great way to experience something like this for the first time. There are no bad stops, no bad restaurants, and every day is planned out so nothing is wasted and your time in Italy is maximized.
People ask me all the time, why do you do this trip? That's a good question and I have thought about it from many different angles and reasons. Really, I love taking people on this journey because of the joy I receive in seeing how it has changed people's lives and most importantly how they go about living each day of their lives. I try and stress this on the trip to observe the Italian culture, their stress on wonderful meals with family and friends, beauty, singing, and their unique perspective on time and of course their unparalleled passion for everything - even the simplest things can evoke an amazing operatic production or expression. It's beautiful and this beauty is something I hope to infuse into my travelers and inspire them to act this out every day once back home. I am happy to say, I have heard back from so many of my travelers and repeat travelers - who I guess need a little refill - that this trip has changed their life and perspective on how to live each day and make the simplest things they do each day more beautiful and meaningful. That's it - plain and simple!
Every trip is truly an adventure and I have learned so much about myself over the course of these trips. What is nice about travel is it forces us out of our comfort zone. Add the visual and sensory stimulation a place like Italy, and especially Tuscany and Umbria provides, and you cannot help but realize the rut everyday life can put you in. This trip and this place in essence wakes me up and I love watching it awaken my travelers. The landscape and architecture, the language, the smells, and needless to say the tastes - every sense is stimulated and awakened. I find myself, upon return, trying to keep this awakened state of living life alive and ongoing and so this trip is also about doing just that.
With all of the adventures, stories, photographs, and recipes I have collected over the last 8 tours over 12 years I am putting this all together in a new book I will be publishing this fall. Stay tuned for details! Meanwhile, follow our journey here on the blog and on our Candelaria Design Tour Italy Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/CandelariaTourItaly
We look forward to a great trip and sharing it with you. Please join us in 2013 as we are tentatively set to depart Phoenix on September 4th and will return on September 17th. We are already filling spots so plan ahead and sign up now!
July 2012 - Candelaria Design Update - Tour Italy 2012
First and foremost we are getting reedy for our Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2012!!! We have a great group going this year from clients, to vendors, to some Candelaria Design fans who all share the intrigue of Italy! We do have two spots still open for this trip and with our departure of August 22nd - you still have time to join us. This is our ninth tour and my 12th trip to Italy so we have sifted through a lot to make this the best experience of several remarkable places and aspects of Italy.
The trip runs $6k per person as a couple and $7650 as a single traveler - however, I do have a single traveler and a couple others wanting to come at the couple rate so if you are thinking of joining us let me know and we can pair you up. The cost covers your round trip coach airfare, hotels, country houses, rental car, cooking class, and wine tour, and a few of our special dinners during the trip. If you have miles or want to upgrade your airfare we will credit the coach price against your total cost. We accept, VISA, MC and AMEX so you can earn miles with your miles!
If you have never been to Italy - this is the trip to spread your wings and test the water because everything is taken care of and arranged - you just show up. We depart Phoenix on August 22nd, and we currently have travelers coming from LA and South Carolina so your starting and ending location is not an issue. We arrive in Florence on August 23rd and spend three days and two nights in this fabulous city of the Renaissance. We kick things off while in Florence with an amazing 6 course dinner at the Villa San Michele http://www.villasanmichele.com/web/ovil/villa_san_michele.jsp designed by no other than Michelangelo himself.
We then grab our rental cars and drive to our country house compound in Umbria. We spend 7 days in this beautiful corner of Italy and use our country compound as our base to explore Umbria and Tuscany. We kick off our country adventure with a fabulous brunch at the Villa Piazzano in Tuscany. http://www.villadipiazzano.com/?r=4075004&gclid=CIfYqJmQi7ECFQoZQgodtkdJTg From Assisi, Deruta and Perugia in Umbria to Montepulciano, Montalcino, Cortona, Siena, San Gimignano and Arezzo in Tuscany we cover a lot of ground all guided by me personally. Our time in Umbria includes a cooking class right in the kitchen of our country compound and a wine tour that is always first class and most informative. We coordinate the shipping of all of your purchases along the way.
We then end the trip by driving across Tuscany and up the coast to Santa Margherita, Portofino, and the Cinque Terre where we will spend a couple days enjoying this most picturesque part of Italy. We return to Phoenix on September 4th.
People ask me all the time why I do this....??? Well, because it is the one place that has inspired me more than any place I have ever been. Of course I love the architecture, style, food, and wine but what I really love is the way of life and how the Italians relish and thrive on just living. Enjoying everything from a fabulous dinner with family and friends to just savoring a cappuccino one-on-one with a good friend in a piazza watching life walk by. It is that simple and it is something I try and bring back with me each time I go. I never get tired of it and I love returning to the same areas each time, learning more and meeting more people who have all become wonderful friends over the years.
I love sharing this trip and adventure with my friends here in the US - especially those who have never been to Italy or Europe. It is a life changing experience for everyone who has come. I have had many return with me including a couple on this year's trip. I have had a couple buy a house right down the street from where we stay in Umbria and to this day still have a townhouse in Cortona.
I encourage you to join us and round out our trip. If you are in the design/construction industry or a vendor the trip is total research and it will definitely have a positive impact on your business! Call us for details and book with us now. A special thanks to those going this year and those who have traveled with us in the past. You know what I am talking about. Our Pre-Trip party is set for this Thursday, July 12th, at 6pm at our office. If you are thinking about it this year or even in the future or if you are a past traveler, you are more than welcome to join us. RSVP to our office at 602-604-2001 and share in the fun and anticipation by liking our Candelaria Design Tour Italy Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/CandelariaTourItaly
Ciao!
Happy Holidays - December 2011
First, thank you for all the goodies and bottles of wine. It is always appreciated but definitely not necessary. We are so blessed and really, we have enough popcorn balls and peanut brittle to last till July. This year instead of sending gifts to all of the current and past clients, vendors, builders, subs, etc…. we are donating a day at St. Mary’s Food Bank as we did during our first years whereby we will sort and package food for them which in turn feeds hundreds of families just from our one day effort. We will let you all know the date and we encourage you to come join us. It is a very fun and especially rewarding day.
Extreme Home Tour Entry Courtyard |
Parlor Interior of Yuma Farm house |
MRA Custom Homes Open House Event |
Yuma Farm Estate House |
Framing underway in Silverleaf Home |
Paradise Valley Estate Home |
Arcadia French Country Manor House |
St. James Tavern London |
Picadilly Circus - London |
London at Night |
Santa Fe |
Espanola, New Mexico |
Glacier National Park |
Our last ski trip with our late friend Dave Reinsch (center) in Park City |
Dukes Hotel - London |
Santa Fe |
My girls at the Farmer's Market - Coeur d'Alene, Idaho |
Getting ready for the Parada del Sol - Scottsdale. |
Dancing with the Stars |
October 2011 Blog - MRA Custom Home Events
MRA Morning Glory Estate Lot 2 |
MRA Morning Glory Estate Lot 3 |
MRA Morning Glory Lot 2 Kitchen |
Aerial View of MRA Morning Glory Estates |
MRA Morning Glory Estate Lot 2 |
PR & Press
Mountain Residence - Flagstaff, Arizona |
Dream Home to be featured on Phx Home and Garden Tour - Nov 6th |
Tapas at Twilight - Earth & Images
Italy Trip 2012
October Recipe of the Month
Cioppino Pasta
September 2011 Blog - Candelaria Design Update
Rendering - New Residence in Arcadia on the boards! |
New Home under construction on Hayden Lake, ID |
In terms of Candelaria Design, there are some great things happening! We have had several projects published in the last few months including the cover feature in the June 2011 issue of Phoenix Home & Garden Magazine. This project spearheaded by Project Manager, Lisa Mallas Matthews, features an amazing renovation / remodel of a tract home in McCormick Ranch into and eclectic Old World casa showcasing the amazing antiques and treasures collected through the years by our client. I love this project and especially the clients we worked with – I have worked with them for years on a number of projects and they are truly amazing people. I was then excited to see the project featured again in the September issue and once again it made the cover!
LEED Certifications
Zona Verde Residence, Paradise Valley |
El Chorro |
Villa Piazzano - Tuscany |
Brunch at Villa Piazzano - Candelaria Design Italy Trip |
Wrap Up
Hope's Window and Door Factory Jamestown. NY |
Crittal Window & Door Co. - England |
South bank of the Thames - London |
St. Paul's Cathedral - London |
Support Two of Our Causes
(under Real Estate - Residential) in Ranking Arizona's 2012 poll. You can vote for us once every 90 days. Thanks for keeping us in the Top 10!
Italy Trip 2010 - Day 7 - Day at the Umbrian Farmhouse
Today was our quiet day at the Umbrian Farmhouse. The decrescendo of our journey. A day to just enjoy the countryside and the beautiful home and grounds capped off with our cooking class at the end of the day.
Of course I woke up before anyone and being we were out of coffee at the houses, I thought I would head to town early and grab some provisions to start the day for my travelers. Of course it was only 6:30 am so all was quiet in Mercatale. I made my way into the local coffee stop, Sheila's, and asked what time the local market opened. Well of course that wasn't until 8 am so I grabbed a couple cappuccinos and kicked back and watched the news, in Italian of course. I enjoyed watching the locals stumble their way in to start their days - mostly farmers and construction workers, all who likely engaged in this ritual every day. And even though I stuck out like a sour thumb, all were friendly with a gruff, but non-threatening, buon giorno and a nod of the head.
At 8 am I was off to the market where I was the first patron of the day. The proprietor was kind and tolerated my hand gestures and sketches on paper to describe a bag of coffee, sugar, and cream. Grabbed some croissants, a little fruit and I was out the door. As I drove back to the houses the light through the wafting fog dancing on the hills over the sunlit tobacco and sunflower fields was captivating. So what should have been a 15 min drive home quickly became a 45 minute drive with stops here and there along the way to snap vignettes of this quiet and picturesque landscape. You realize that men and women have been farming this valley for years - thousands of years. What spirits were dancing in the fog???? I can only imagine.
Life was stirring at the house when I returned. Coffee was quickly on the stove and the day now really began. With no agenda, everyone started to set their own course
We made our way north of our home, past the small walled city of Citta di Castello, and up the valley toward Arezzo. Finally we found the old stoneyard and we pulled in and parked. Not two minutes later a gentleman pulled up ascertaining our purpose. I quickly aksed for Giacomo who is the son of the family who runs this amazing operation. He quickly called him and in minutes I was speaking with Giacomo and he was excited to hear I was back for a visit. He was finishing lunch (always a priority) and would join us in about 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, we would walk the yard and see what treasures were on the grounds. In the past, this was their only location and all of their inventory was in this open air yard. Walking around it became quiet apparent that this was no longer the case. The yard was filled strictly with building materials, pavers, tiles, beams, and a few old fireplace fronts, basins and fountains - all probably not good enough to make the grade of their new location. With a huge thunderstorm approaching we quickly toured the yard and made our way to the cover and safety of our cars. No sooner did we get inside than the rain came down - big time. Of course that is when Giacomo arrived and jumping out of the car to chat was just enough time to get totally soaked! He asked we follow him to their new showroom.....
After a short drive through the farm valley we made our way to the new Lacole facility.....WOW. The new showroom is simply mindblowing! A huge 2 story showroom is only augmented by a huge outdoor yard where all the pieces from the old stoneyard that were randomly strewn about are now organized in beautiful vignettes and rows making the treasure hunting experience for the patron very pleasurable. Everything from the antiques to the snails on the ground are beautiful in true Italian style! It is very gratifying to see how far this family's operation has come in the ten years I have been visiting them. I have purchased roof tiles, doors, fireplace fronts, and many other elements for projects in Phoenix from Lacole and so its always great to visit them. Mamma who runs the antique side of the business is always great to see - she never ages and is a beautiful woman. I could sit and just listen to her speak for hours.... They gave us a nice tour and after two hours of wandering around we said our goodbyes and we were on our way back to the Umbrian Farmhouses.
With a stop at a farm to see the chickens, turkeys, pigs and ducks all race to greet us (by the way a chicken is faster than a turkey) we made our way home to the laughter and commotion of the house. Several of our travelers all had made their way on their own adventures and explorations of the area so we all arrived with our stories of the day. Elizabeth and her crew were getting things ready for our cooking class which starts around 4pm and runs until 8 pm whereupon we all sit down to savor our gastronomic creations! The cooking class is always a great time - relaxing, fun and with vino flowing, always full of laughter. People jump in and out of the various activities involved in the production of the various dishes. Along the way we are all savoring the tastes as the light from the day slowly descends on the Umbrian hills. Its a very memorable way to spend the day at the Country Houses.
With dinner behind us and a fire in the fireplace it was time to unwind. As we did a group started to strategize about branching off and heading to the Amalfi Coast for a little side adventure over the next three days. After enjoying another glass of vino or two, we all had our game plans for Day 8 and it was time to call it a night......let's just say at about 2am ....again.
Italy Trip 2010 - Day 6 Wine Tour
Today marks the halfway point on our trip. It's a day I always enjoy - our tour of the Tuscan Wineries with our guide, Pino Teresi.
We had full interest with the exception of my daughter, Tiffany, who decided to hang at the house and have the place to herself for the day. The rest of us were up and out of there by 8:45 with the fog still lifting from the Umbrian hills. We made our way down the gravel road and into the closest town, Mercatale, to meet Pino at our little coffee stop, Shiela's. A quick cappuccino and a bottle of water to go and we all hopped on the charter bus Pino had arranged. Ahh, no driving today, just sipping wine, taking photos, and letting Pino run the show.
Pino is an amazing guide and I highly recommend him if in the area. He is well educated and extremely knowledgeable and quite respected by anyone we encounter in any of the towns - they all love Pino! Like all Italians, his descriptions are always animated and passionate and he is just a delight to listen to.
Our driver made our way past Cortona and from that point forward all of the iconic photos of the Tuscan countryside were right out our window. As we made our way through hills punctuated by rows of Italian Cyprus and stone farmhouses we made our way up the hill to our first stop, Montepulciano, home of the fine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine and several beautiful cellars. The town was settled in the 3rd and 4th centuries B.C. by the Etruscans and later the Romans. I suppose if you produce great wine there is no reason to leave!
Our first stop was at the oldest winery in Montepulciano, Contucci, http://www.contucci.it. The Contucci family founded this winery in the 11th Century and continue their passion for fine wine, vin santo and olive oil still today. We were presented several wines and the history of the winery and the story of their grapes by Pino and the host, Adamo! What a character this guy was. The first words out of his limited English vocabulary was the fact he loved wine, women, and their breasts....well what a way to start a wine tasting at 10:30 am. Adamo worked the room and proceeded to kiss every woman on the tour, many several times for each photo op. After several samples it was time to give Adamo and the ladies a rest and move on to our next venue.
The next stop was the Cantina del Redi, http://www.cantinadelredi.com. We always make it a point to make a stop to this amazing cellar buried deep in the tufa stone below Montepulciano. The smell, the mood, and the fact you just keep going down until you ultimately reach the temple of barrels and brick vaults which tower over this wine heaven even if it is deep underground. I love the look of my travelers when they arrive in this cellar. It's beyond description as the sight, smell, sound and light all tantalize your senses....and that's before you even taste the wine. This is always one of my favorites and continues to be despite all of the wonderful places Pino has taken me and my travelers over the years.
A quick walk through town, a little shopping and it was time to herd the troops up to our next stop Pienza. Again, the drive to Pienza is gorgeous as the bus climbs up and down subtle hills with the turned soil or vineyards full of the grapes we were beginning to enjoy on this day. We made our way to Pienza where we had a lovely lunch at the La Mensa "Del Conte". www.lamensadelconte.it. This place is always on Pino's agenda for this day and the food is always simple, hardy and definitely Tuscan. With lunch behind us we took a quick walking tour through Pienza - home of the impeccable Pecorino cheese, a hard cheese made from ewe's milk.
With Pienza behind us it was off to our final stop Montalcino and home of the Brunello di Montalcino wine. Here we tasted the number one rated wine in the world as rated by Spectator Magazine, the Casanova di Neri 2001 Tenuta Nuova Brunello, http://www.casanovadineri.it. I was fortunate to snag a few bottles in 2007 when touring this winery and I am saving at least one for my upcoming 50th Birthday in October! This trip we spent the afternoon at the Enoteca di Piazza, www.enotecadipiazza.com, which is a great wine tasting room with a wide selection of wines all available via the tasting carousels and a great view of the countryside out the window! The proprietor was knowledgeable and spoke very good English so the time here was great and their shipping system was well organized. Needless to say, after an hour of samplings it was not difficult to place orders for several cases.
With lunch and plenty of wine it was time for the long bus ride back to Mercatale where a nine course meal was waiting for us at Mimmi's। Yes 9 course meal। I of course knew this so I took a nice cat nap on the hour and a half ride back to Mercatale। Upon arrival we said our goodbyes to Pino and I quickly dashed up the hill to get Tiffany and then it was off to Mimmi's for the endless country meal all served family style। This marathon of gastronomic indulgence started with two different appetizers, followed by three separate pasta dishes - cannelloni, lasagna, and raviolis, and then two vegetable dishes then finally three different meat dishes - roasted pork, turkey and beef।
Then finally a desert dish featuring tiramisu, gelato, and God I cannot remember the third little delight on that plate.... We always outlast every guest of this restaurant and by the end of the night the place is ours and our debauchery begins। Jokes, laughter, singing.....its always a relaxing and comfortable place despite the size of your waistline at the conclusion of dinner!
By now it was close to midnight.....again... but tomorrow was a free day. No real agenda other than sleeping in and hanging out at the pool.....we'll see!
Italy Trip 2010 - Day 5 Deruta and Assisi
Day 5 began quietly. After all of the excitement from yesterday's adventures everyone was moving a bit slower on this morning and some were not moving at all!
Those of us that were coherent, started the morning with a little coffee on the porch and enjoyed our ritual of watching the fog burn off in the Niccone valley below. Once we were loaded with caffeine we were ready to start our Monday tour of Umbria. I love it as the trip progresses and everyone starts to get comfortable with being in the country and since everyone has their own car, the agenda is there but you don't have to follow it. Most of the group stayed behind and slept in! I had 7 with me and 7 were sawing logs.
Off we went down the hill, through the valley then up and over the big hill, the great view of Lake Trasimeno and then down the hill. We jumped on the freeway which is interrupted by numerous tunnels but with just two cars in our Umbrian convey today was a breeze. We passed Perugia, which is a great town, and proceeded down the Tiber river valley to Deruta. Deruta is most recognized for its excellent ceramics which are exported throughout the world. The fine clay from the Tiber River provides the unique medium for this craft which has been perfected over the centuries.
We stopped at my favorite studio and shop, CAMA, which I have been visiting for nearly 10 years now. The Niccacci family has been operating CAMA for over 60 years and every time I visit Mamma and Pappa are there to welcome me with kisses and a personal tour for my guests of their studio. Uncle Luigi throws the clay and his hands magically, precisely, and repeatedly produce the myriad of pieces they produce. He is a a master and it is simply mesmerizing to watch him on the wheel. Then to watch the speed and precision of the stenciling and painting of each piece, one by one....it truly gives you an appreciation of the love, passion, craftsmanship and history that goes into each piece. Needless to say, once everyone experienced the tour and the spirit of this place - including pictures of the family presenting pieces to Pope John Paul II next to biking and soccer photos of Pappa when he was much younger - the purchasing was in full fervor. Let's just say the Niccacci's are always happy when I come to town and make what is probably a slow Monday into a nice little uptick in their sales for the month! This trip was no different.
After the ordering was done, Roberta Niccacci escorted us through town to a great little country house in the farmland of the Tiber valley for lunch. I love these little bed and breakfast places. Pappa or Mamma cooks and the other serves. Other than perhaps the mayor of town, we were the only other diners on the patio overlooking the tobacco and sunflower fields. We ordered antipasti for 7 and of course instead received 7 individual antipasti platters....ahhh dining in Umbria was on! A little vino, and the sound of thunder and lighting from an approaching thunderstorm and you couldn't ask for any better ambiance for a Monday afternoon lunch in Umbria. I enjoyed the Tagliatelle con Chingale (pasta with wild boar sauce), whose order was confirmed by the waitress giving a pig snort sound, and of course a glass of chianti. A myriad of dishes were ordered by the group and the sampling began! Delicious!
As we were dining in Deruta, our late sleepers had risen and were off on their own adventure and stopped along the Lake Trasimeno for their lunch which apparently was also equally amazing. Pasta with white truffe sauce along the shore of the lake....sounds pretty good to me. We closed out our purchases at CAMA and we were off to Assisi to all rendezvous.
Assisi is always a favorite on the trip and this time proved no different. Parking is always an adventure in these hilltowns but we all seemed to find a spot and eventually all meet at the main piazza. Touring churches and shops, grabbing a gelato to top off the pasta and enjoying the passing thunderstorm all added to a relaxing afternoon in this beautiful Umbrian hilltown. Assisi is the birthplace of St. Francis, who founded the religious order of the Franciscan monks in this town in 1208 and shares honor with Saint Catherine of Siena as the patron saints of Italy. You can definitely feel this aura as you stroll the streets and occasionally pass a monk or nun on their way to mass. The streets are tight and medieval in character and you always catch a glimpse of the quilted patchwork of farm fields below as you glance down the streets. Its really a beautiful and spiritual place.
Both groups arrived at the Basilica di San Francesco which was damaged in a quake in 1997 but was restored and reopened just two years later. This church is amazing and one of the best on our tour. Three levels make up this marvelous structure capped off with the tomb of Saint Francis at the bottom level which acts as the emanating core of this church. Everyone was moved by this remarkable place. We sat in the middle church and watched all of our travelers emerge from the tomb just shaking their heads in awe as mass was being said in the adjoining chapel. Talk about mood....wow. We then all gathered and proceeded outdoors to the sun peaking through following the rainstorm.....again amazing. Fantastic light and the cameras were in full motion. We made our way back through town, did a little shopping along the way, and capped our conquering of Assisi with a gelato and/or cappuccino at the Piazza San Rufino at the top of the town.
We then proceeded to all make our ways back to our cars....some had an adventure in that task but we all eventually made it and drove down the hill and back to our little dark and quiet Niccone valley. Along the way we stopped in our favorite pizzeria in Lisciono Niccone and grabbed six pies, panna cotta for desert, and of course a couple jugs of the local house wine for reinforcements!
Back to the houses, a little dinner, a quick swim under the Umbrian stars, and then it was back onto the porch for recollections of the day's adventures, laughs and then eventually some more swimming at 2 am.... what fun!
Italy Trip 2010 - Day 4 Sunday in Tuscany and lost in Umbria
Italy Trip 2010 - Day 4 Sunday in Tuscany
Sleeping in the Umbrian countryside is fantastic. Too bad I don’t let my travelers get much of it! It’s Sunday morning and today we have another fun filled day in Umbria and Tuscany.
After getting everyone moving – which is always a challenge especially with 14 travelers – we fixed some espresso in our little Italian coffee makers, enjoyed the sunrise from our terrace and we were off to the Villa di Piazzano for our Sunday brunch.
Villa di Piazzano is an amazing place and one I stumbled upon while snooping around Tuscany. My first visit was in 2001 when the Wimpole family purchased the property and begun their amazing restoration and transformation of this property. I have made it a point to visit this splendid place every trip and the work they have done is truly remarkable. The Hotel Villa di Piazzano is a manor house of the 1400s located in the countryside just outside the town of Cortona, a town on the border between Tuscany and Umbria made famous by the American writer Frances Mayes with her book and later the movie, Under the Tuscan Sun. The drive into the property is alone worth the trip and sets the bar high for what is to come.
After we parked the cars we strolled the grounds and then were greeted by the proprietor, Mr. Damian Wimpole, and his lovely daughter, Alessandra. It has been a real pleasure to know these people over the last ten years and they have always warmly welcomed us, my guests, and subsequent referrals. Many of my clients and friends have stayed there, including myself one time, and it is definitely a memorable experience.
We slowly made our way into the dining room where they had prepared a wonderful brunch of meats, fruits, cheeses, breads, etc. All simple but beautifully staged and choreographed just like everything in Italy. As with anything here we spend as much time enjoying and photographing the food as we do eating it! We dined outside on the terrace and enjoyed a relaxing champagne brunch.
Following brunch Mr. Wimpole gave us a tour of the hotel including the newest acquisition across the drive that features contemporary decorated quarters set in the customary Tuscan style façade. Amazing and very chic’. Loved it. The finale consisted of their tour of their stunning wine cellar that I can only dream someday of having a dinner with my buddies some late fall evening with Brunello’s followed by cigars and Lemoncello. This will happen someday!
With the tour of Villa di Paizzano concluded it was off to Arezzo for the antique fair and Renaissance festival. Arezzo is a beautiful hilltown rising from the floodplain of the River Arno. Founded by the Etruscans this is a very old city and was a prominent medieval center which has maintained this character and feel to a tee. A quick stop at the ATM, which by the way are everywhere, and as we turned around here comes trumpets, drums, horses and jousters – the complete medieval parade with representation from every neighborhood proudly displaying their flags, and attire. Amazing and magical. The church bells ringing and those Italian faces – wow! The parade lasted a good hour whereby we were on a quest for antiques and a cold bierra or a gelato.
With Arezzo conquered it was off to Cortona – the home of Under the Tuscan Sun! I love this little hilltown and there is always excitement and drama on every corner. Sundays are always a busy evening in this town and this trip proved no different. Parking is the first adventure and this trip we had a little of everything. I found my usual spot at the bottom of the hill and made my way up the hill following the beautiful couple who looked like they just flew in from Monte Carlo. I happily followed them to the top of the escalator and I found my first group parked illegally at the drop off point at the main entry to the town blocking all of the tour buses. I quickly told them that we needed to move their car and jumped in and drove them down to the lot I parked in. Back up the escalator following Monte Carlo couple number two only to arrive at the same top of the hill to a huge traffic jam. Apparently, someone decided to also park illegally and ended up blocking the tour bus and then all of the cars behind including one of our cars. Now the drama of this Italian hilltown was in full swing. Every grandmother, baby, police women, dog, and cat were all there throwing their hands in the air and yelling at each other in a symphony out of a Fellini movie. Beautiful – I love the excitement and drama! The tow truck arrived, towed the car, and once again we were all moving. Boy am I glad we moved our car number 2 as I can only imagine what the experience of trying to find your car that had been towed would be like….!
So we finally had everyone in the main piazza and everyone unwound and started pouring the vino. Let’s just say a few really enjoyed the vino and probably a few other beverages along the way…. The rest of us strolled the narrow, magical streets and piazzas and caught the Tuscan sunset on this picturesque town and the valley and quilt of farms and villas below. Beautiful.
A few others made their way to Il Falconierie, (http://www.ilfalconiere.it) a wonderful hotel consisting of a restored villa, farmhouse, and chapel along with a restaurant featuring cooking classes and wine tastings. This is a beautiful place featuring world class cuisine, service and scenery.
We all rendezvoused for dinner in the Trattoria Toscana and enjoyed a nice simple dinner at half the cost of what we had been spending in Florence. Of course when 14 people take over one of these small and quaint trattorias its quite the affair. After dinner it was back to the parking lot but not until it was discovered my car keys were missing…..more drama! Well in the search through the streets of Cortona for the keys – which by the way were left in car two in the mad dash to park the cars. With the key drama solved we noticed that one of our group had left without us. Brave ones to drive off on night number one with the cars…..hmmmm.
We made it all home, which is about a 30 mile drive from Cortona, or so we thought….. My phone had died and I thought we had all made it home and I would just charge the phone in the morning. My daughter, Tiffany, thought it might be smart to charge the phone now in case anyone needed to get a hold of me. Well sure enough, as soon as the phone charged the texts started coming in. My Iphone sounded like a slot machine that had hit the jackpot. The group who left early were lost somewhere in Umbria. Of course this was the car with three women and the gentleman who had indulged a bit too much and was out in the back seat…
I quickly called them and talk about a happy group to hear my voice. I was already home and did not want to drive down the winding dirt road in search of them, God knows where, at 1am in the morning in Umbria. I had them start reading signs and describing what they were seeing and within minutes I knew where they were and proceeded to guide them home one farmhouse, pig sty, tree, and wall at a time all the way home. MC and my Iphone was better than any GPS!
So concluded day 4 and our first full day in Umbria! Off to Deruta and Assisi tomorrow and who knows what adventures lie ahead.
Italy Trip 2010 - Day 3
Ahhhhh- we made it to the country houses in Umbria. Here is where I finally relax and unwind. After the stress of getting 14 people from Phoenix, via Philadelphia, via Frankfurt to Florence and then the hustle and bustle of Florence, followed by convincing six of my guests to rent cars in Italy and hop right on the Autostrada - well I think you get the picture and why now I am finally relaxing.
To retrace day three....our transition day. We started the morning, blogging once again from the rooftop of the Brunellschi Hotel where I was joined by one of my travelers who was kind enough to bring a tray of coffee. So we enjoyed the sunrise overlooking the Duomo and slowly woke up and started the day. I love this hotel in that the staff are always so friendly and accommodating and the hotel is perfectly, centrally located so you are in the heart of all the sites of Florence.
We headed down to breakfast and put our strategy together for the day. This started with a quick trip to the San Lorenzo Market which for me is always a treat. The square is filled with street vendors selling everything from t-shirts to beautiful leather jackets. After maneuvering our way through the vendors you finally find the indoor market which is amazing. A maze of meat markets, fish markets, flower stands, bread and pastry shops, its the equivalent of Pike's Market in Seattle - only better. We enjoyed the market, made our way back through the street vendors and back to the hotel to check out.
After checking out, the shuttles were there to meet us and take us to the airport where we were to rendezvous with one of our late arrivals who was unable to fly over with the rest of the group. We proceeded to get our rental cars and head out to the country. Of course nothing is ever very efficient in Italy, so after waiting several minutes for them to find my car and then clean my car we all got ourselves in order and proceeded onto the Autostrada - 7 cars, all nice Mercedes so we looked like quiet the entourage. Getting the rental cars from the Florence Airport has proven to be the easiest way to get out of the city and immediately into the country. Some trips past this task has been a real adventure but all went like clockwork this time - again thanks to my assistant, Evelyn!
We drove about 45 minutes south to Montevarchi where the top secret Prada Outlet called Space is located. This is always a tricky place to find in that street names are difficult to see or find that is if they truly even exist. Google has a long way to go when locating places in Italy, and the GPS loves to tell you to flip a U-turn....... So when all else fails flag down a local, pay him 5 euros to escort us there and another 5 euros when we arrive. Worked like a charm! This place is very discreet and almost top secret. Grab a number outside the warehouse, wait your turn and then you duck in and boom you are in Prada. The girls scattered in every direction and fortunately, whoever came up with this place was smart enough to include a bar / restaurant right next to it so all the guys headed there. We gave the girls 90 minutes which quickly became 2 hours but eventually they all pulled themselves away and walked out with their discounted purchases with big smiles on their faces.
We left Space and instead of jumping right back on the Autostrada we winded our way across the countryside and eventually made our way back on to the Autostrada. After about an hour we exited at Tuoro and made our way up the hill and the beautiful views of Lake Trasimeno. After a winding climb up its an equally long and winding climb down into the lovely Niccone River Valley that divides Tuscany from Umbria. Tuscany is on the west side of the valley and Umbria is on the east. The valley is dotted with old castles, villas, tobacco, corn and sunflower fields - picturesque is an understatement. Once we arrived at the valley floor we stopped in Mercatale for some provisions - mostly wine and water - and a quick call to our house caretaker for updated directions in and we were on our way.
The road through the valley is nice, and paved but we eventually make our turn to the dusty, gravel road through the scrub oaks and up a very steep hill. The dirt road is a good mile maybe two and my guests are wondering where in the hell am I taking them....These country houses are remote but the isolation and view are most definitely worth it. Up, up, up (you hear that a lot here in Italy) and finally after coming around a tight curve their are the houses - La Pietra and La Quierca. Beautiful, simple, charming old farmhouses. We park and everyone gets out of their cars and just sighs.... you can feel the relief that we have arrived and you see the amazement and anticipation in everyone's faces that this is really going to be something different, and that it is.
We walk past the gate, and through the herb garden whereupon our host Elizabeth Wholey, her husband, and staff are there to greet us and give us a tour of the house. A simple yet extremely beautiful light dinner is awaiting us and we all settle in for our stay here in Umbria. After dinner, we open a few more bottles of vino, make a fire in the fireplace and run down to the pool for a quick candle lit dip under the Umbrian sky and then back up to the house for stories and maybe another glass of wine.....
Life is good in Umbria!
Italy Trip 2010 - Day 2
Writing this morning as dawn approaches from the rooftop of the Hotel Brunelleschi in Florence, Italy. Listening to the bells of the Santa Maria del Fiore and recalling all of our memories from Day 2. Beautiful morning here and not a cloud in the sky! What a great day 2 we all had!
The day started bright and early for me as my body clock has not adjusted to the time here in Italy, so i was up at 4am. Fortunately, I was able to receive a call on a new project in Pheonix whch we were able to close a deal on so that was a very nice way to start the day and this vacation! I headed down to the bar to write my blog, check emails and get ready for day two. I love the mornings in the Italian towns and cities because you basically own it. No vespas, people, nothing - quiet stillness. It is very hard to come by when in the cities in Italy. So I make it a point to always get up early, enjoy the start of the day, then catch a nap later in the afternoon. This was definitely the plan today!
After blogging and catching up on the emails, I was coaxed into a morning jog through the streets of Italy by fellow traveler, friend, and fabulous interior designer, Kim Colletti. We ran and walked our way on a nice loop through Florence past the three main churches of the city, Santa Maria Novella, the Duomo - Santa Maria del Fiore, and the Basillica San Croce. Now this was a great way to start the day and get the blood moving and fend off that damn jet lag!
Following our run we hooked up with some of our travelers in the hotel restaurant, grabbed a quick bite, some much needed coffee, grabbed a shower in the room and it was off to our walking tour through Florence. The walking tours in Italy are great and in particular the one in Florence. Three hours walking tours truly enlighten you to so much that you simply take for granted when ignorantly strolling the streets. It is amazing all of the significance each corner, square, street and church offers and the multitude of stories and history this place is filled with. Basically, in our modern world and culture, despite our problems, it is nothing to what life must have been like in these cities during the Dark Ages or the Renaissance. Now those were some rough times to be a human being. You were either a slave or commoner with virtually a meager existence or you were wealthy and having to constantly fend off your rivals who wanted to quarter you or burn you at the stake in the square....we have nothing to complain about - trust me. I could write a whole blog about the stories we were told - all fascinating and all brining such a new layer of understanding and appreciation of how this place ever came to be!
After the walking tour we grabbed lunch in a familiar trattoria just around the corner from the Palazzo Vecchio and then it was off to the airport to retrieve my lost bag! Thank God it was located and so I was fortunate to not lose a beat on the trip. Grabbed the cab ride back to the hotel and proceeded excitedly to my 2-1/2 hour siesta!
Woke up, and we all rendezvoused, in the hotel bar, a few cocktails, glass of wine, and then it was off to dinner. Our dinner was little more low key tonight - basically a small trattoria across the alley from the hotel! But it was nice, quiet and everyone seemed to enjoy themselves. A great bistecca fiorentina, a glass of wine and then, it was off to the streets of Florence for a little fun! And fun we had!!!
Night life in Florence is quite the spectacle! Street performers. Mimes, and musicians all fill the fabric, sites and sounds of the evening. We grabbed a gelato and a cigar – nice combo by the way and the girls took a ride on the carousel in the Piazza Republica and we then proceeded to the River Arno and Harry’s Bar! This a a great spot and home to the founding of the Bellini. We enjoyed a little desert and then it was off to the Westin to listen to our piano player, playing of course American music, and share some final stories before walking home and saying goodnight to beautiful Florence!